Time to do some miles

On our way south, with no big mountains to climb today.  We had typical rolling hills, and a tough headwind, so the miles seemed to go slowly.  We had a few pleasant surprise after leaving disappointing cheticamp - nice ride over to cheticamp island, riding along the bluff between mountains and the sea for the morning, an almost warm beach in Inverness with good porridge bread from a bakery right there (went well with our very warm cheese!) Staying at a cottage overlooking the beach in port hood, and tomorrow we leave Cape Breton and move to stage 3 of the trip.  66.7 miles

Mountain trio completed

Day 3 of our Cape Breton ride resulted in our successfully completing the third of three mountains along the Cabot Trail. Today's mountain was actually two mountains joined by a plateau (up Mount Mackenzie and down French Mountain), but who's counting? The climb was steep at 12% grade but we all agreed today was easier than yesterday's climb up North Mountain, which was longer and 13% grade, with more traffic passing alongside. On the other hand, yesterday we had extra motivation, hearing tourists shout out that a moose was sighted at the summit. We pedaled as best we could but missed the moose by about 60 seconds. And although everyone keeps telling us how plentiful moose are around the park, we have been referring to them as "the elusive moose" plastered on every National Park information kiosk but nowhere to be found.

If you haven't already figured it out...today's post is being written by Jenn, the verbose "Guest Blogger". So I've agreed to accept Jon's challenge for one post but have no fear...Jon will be back on board tomorrow. He needs a bit of a break to map out the next few days of our trip...he is sitting at the table as I write this, with map, phone, and pen in hand. You can stop reading as soon as I've become too verbose (which is about now). Perhaps we can persuade Mark to take a shot another day.

In order to end my blog without overstepping the 3-paragraph blog maximum, I have come up with a plan...bullet points! Here goes:

•Today's destination: Cheticamp - try saying that 3 times fast and see if you aren't giggling by the end. An Acadian town we had such great hopes for, but has largely revealed itself as closer to its unfortunate sounding name. We imagined something resembling a Canadian version of the quaint New England fishing village but instead found a lot of prefab housing and not a t-shirt shop or candy store in sight. On the other hand we enjoyed a fabulous pizza and discovered a French bakery (and certainly the town is authentic so that argues a point for not having endless gift shops).

• Top 3 phrases running through my brain today and everyday at the start of many hills: "Steady as she goes", "Shit", and "Good idea!" (That's when I see Mark reach for his water bottle and am reminded that I haven't been drinking enough).

• If it's sunny in Cape Breton just wait five minutes...it is guaranteed to change to fog (see photos of today's amazing Skyline Hike...could not see the ocean below).

I'd love to write more, but I know this is already beyond the limit so signing off for now...

Jon again: Other Jenn additions that she forgot as I'm trying to post this - meeting couple who live in Fisher hill Brookline, have kids at same schools, have Maine lake house near where Jenn grew up.
- the bike shop guy - only one on cape breton who did not have the cleat I needed for my shoes.
27.7 miles plus 5 mile hike

Halfway point.

At the furthest point away from home, and passed 500 miles for the trip today.  Another ho-hum day with ocean views, killer climbs, wildlife sightings.  I'd write more,  but hoping Jenn will take over writing the blog - she says we aren't providing enough details, and as some of you know, she is more verbose than Mark and I combined. 42.2 miles under clouds.

Onto cabot trail, and mt smokey

I used to think the metric system was pretty cool.  Everything in 10s, consistent terms in all measurements, accepted globally.  Then we encountered mt smokey - the first of 3 killer climbs on the Cabot trail.  When you have to climb 1000' in a mile and a half, you know that's insane and would never agree to do it (except donna of course).  But in metric, its only 300 meters and over 2.5 km.  So that sounds like no problem.  Especially if your bike and gear only weigh 27 kilograms.  Piece of cake.  WRONG.  But we made it!  Rewarded with this view from the porch of our cabin - no photos of the forgettable inside.  Some great views overall today, although we were inland more than we'd hoped.  More traffic, but if you give them a courtesy 'go on, pass me' wave, they usually return a courtesy honk. It's all good. Imperial stats - 64.4 miles, 3300' vertical. 

And on the 7th day, they rested

Spent the morning walking around Halifax (beautiful new library and old public Victorian garden), getting the iPhone fixed (sort of) and then picked up Jenn at the airport.  A long, hilly drive to North Sydney got us a little worried about the narrower roads and hills, or should I say mountains, we were doing next.  Tomorrow will tell.  Surprisingly good dinner at the black spoon bistro, and learned of the island tradition of hanging in your cars, socializing in parking lots.  Being on bikes, we could not partake.  Total miles - 1.2 from Avis dropoff to our B&B. 

Stage 1 complete

Arrived in Halifax late this afternoon and it's time for our second player exchange - Jonathan flies home and Jenn arrives tomorrow.  Nova Scotia is named for new Scotland - today we found out why.  Lots of hills.  We spent much of the day going either 5mph (up) or 20mph (down).   And they don't average out to 12mph (do the math). Went through some beautiful oceanside towns - mahone bay, Chester, Hubbards (where Mark became invisible, with both jonathans biking right by him, and us getting separated/lost on a road with no turnoffs).  Arrived with a shock to the sprawl/generic stores of Halifax burbs, but downtown is really nice.  Roads more crowded today, and lots more businesses.  I think people are willing to drive 90 minutes from Halifax, but no more.  Coincidentally the length of your average romantic-action-comedy movie.  Too bad, as there are some beautiful spots further away.  Perhaps when global warming submerges parts of the US, and makes the rest uninhabitable, Nova Scotia will be warmer and it will be developed.  63.6 miles, plus 2.5 miles doubling back and forth in Hubbards.

Happy Canada day!

It was a day of firsts - our first hike into Keji national park, our first hills, our first miles on an interstate, our first rain (about 1/10,000th as much as I got sunday), our first non-foggy sunrise, first traffic light in 3 days, our first cable ferry - which seemed to get further away as we got closer. Staying in Lunenberg, which is a typical touristy fishing town - nice restaurants, colorful buildings, and home to the Bluenose II, Canada's Old Ironsides. Ride got long today as we hiked and ate a late lunch, so only had done 20 miles of our planned route for the day by 2:30. Finished with 78.9 so it was a long afternoon. More civilization today along the route, and traffic increased to 1 car every 5 minutes (rather than once every 10) but still haven't seen any other touring cyclists. Spent about half the day inland, away from the water and on the hills. Onto Halifax tomorrow.
Late addendum - peculiar character of the day.  A used bookstore open at 10pm on Canada day, where the owner(?) with a British accent was practically buried in books.  Store a mess, but there are 3 bookstores in Lunenberg. Amazing.