There are four kinds of roads in Nova Scotia. Today, we rode them all. The worst roads are the '100' highways, often divided and/or limited access, with fast cars and trucks and not much scenery. A little better are dirt roads and rail trails which you can use to avoid the highways, or get to some cool spots otherwise unreachable. They are lined with wildflowers, but you can only do so many miles on dirt. We spent most of our time on the 'old' highways - the 1 and 3. They've got good scenery with marginal traffic. But the best roads are the 200 and 300 roads. No traffic (really!), stunning views and they take you to the best spots. In my humble opinion, and for future riders, our best rides were on the 215 along the Fundy shore, the 309 and 331 on the south coast, the 312 and 219 on cape Breton. They also brought us to our nicest spots - Burntcoat, Sable River, Ingonish and Port Hood. I'd say overall we spent 80% of our time within a mile of the ocean (and saw water about 25% of the time). If someone knows another place where this is possible, let me know - we are going.
Today we rode the ferry back to digby and after a short ride out digby neck, we rode back through Acadian country to Yarmouth. The day started hot and sunny, and fog rolled in after lunch dropping the temperature about 20 degrees. There were some farms, big churches and a nice 'velo' shop, but the area reminded me of the poorer south coast. Hopefully the renewal of the ferry will help. Arrived in Yarmouth around 6:30 both sad, and happy to have completed the ride. Jumped in the pool to celebrate - my only swim of the trip. Tomorrow, before the ferry, we will follow Mark's tracks and ride out to Cape Forchu on the 304, which Mark has verified below as yet another beautiful Nova Scotia ride.
Top 10 things I want to remember:
1. Donna's Halifax travel difficulties, especially if Wendy or Mia land up in college here.
2. Jonathan taking an hour to pick out 2 suitcases.
3. Fog rolling in or burning off.
4. The rain in Maine.
5. The sight of Mt Smokey and thinking it would not be doable.
6. The people - the UFO museum tour guide, the old fart walking, the bookstore guy.
7. Lupines on the south and east coasts.
8. Poverty in Chéticamp and where acadians now live.
9. Seeing Amanda. She is something.
10. Real strawberries whenever you want.
1. Donna's Halifax travel difficulties, especially if Wendy or Mia land up in college here.
2. Jonathan taking an hour to pick out 2 suitcases.
3. Fog rolling in or burning off.
4. The rain in Maine.
5. The sight of Mt Smokey and thinking it would not be doable.
6. The people - the UFO museum tour guide, the old fart walking, the bookstore guy.
7. Lupines on the south and east coasts.
8. Poverty in Chéticamp and where acadians now live.
9. Seeing Amanda. She is something.
10. Real strawberries whenever you want.
72.9 miles, plus 4 to the ferry in saint john. Trip total - 1000.2. I didn't fix this number - it's actually a little more as I didn't measure some rides to dinners, stores. 10 metrics over 17 days riding.
Mark did the ride on Sunday, and the bonus Cape Forchu - here are his thoughts. Expressive adjectives and all (I had to say something Lowenbrau!):
Jenn and Donna will be sad
that they didn't get to ride with THIS person from Montreal, as opposed
to THOSE people from Montreal --- the picture tells the story. I met
this person at a visitor center, and we rode together for about 30
miles. He had already ridden from Montreal to NS via New Brunswick and
the Digby ferry, much of it on rail trails. Aaah, youth- no water bottle
cages, toe clips, or waterproof bags. Just a sleeping bag, tent, and
lots of dry food. Don't think he'll be in the Back Roads catalog anytime
soon.
With
the prospect of my butt sitting on a ferry for 10 hours followed by a
two-hour drive to Boston, I set the alarm early for a quick sunrise ride
out to Cape Forchu. It was a magical 15 miles, with the sun burning
through the fog, and fabulous views out to the water, before reaching
Yarmouth Light. It was poetic to see the Yarmouth-bound Nova Star ferry,
which I would be boarding in an hour for the return trip to Portland, cruising in to harbor.
Mark did the ride on Sunday, and the bonus Cape Forchu - here are his thoughts. Expressive adjectives and all (I had to say something Lowenbrau!):
My final day began in
Annapolis Royal a little on the late side due to some fog and drizzle.
The ride from AR to Yarmouth is 140km, following RT.1 as a way of
staying off the highway. The first 40 miles were not as spectacular as
the previous three days, with a mix of interior riding, some farms, and
occasional views out to the water. Terrific ocean views opened up
starting in Weymouth, and continued into Yarmouth-- along with a stiff
headwind, which slowed speeds considerably.
Jenn and Donna will be sad
that they didn't get to ride with THIS person from Montreal, as opposed
to THOSE people from Montreal --- the picture tells the story. I met
this person at a visitor center, and we rode together for about 30
miles. He had already ridden from Montreal to NS via New Brunswick and
the Digby ferry, much of it on rail trails. Aaah, youth- no water bottle
cages, toe clips, or waterproof bags. Just a sleeping bag, tent, and
lots of dry food. Don't think he'll be in the Back Roads catalog anytime
soon.
After a stop at magnificent Marivalle Beach, the final 30 miles was a lovely, languid, sunsetty ride into Yarmouth, for an 8pm
arrival. No parade or champagne to complete the trip, but a delicious
fresh fish dinner, topped by a piece of strawberry cream pie.
85 miles, and a hillier than expected 3600 feet of climbing.
BONUS MORNING
With
the prospect of my butt sitting on a ferry for 10 hours followed by a
two-hour drive to Boston, I set the alarm early for a quick sunrise ride
out to Cape Forchu. It was a magical 15 miles, with the sun burning
through the fog, and fabulous views out to the water, before reaching
Yarmouth Light. It was poetic to see the Yarmouth-bound Nova Star ferry,
which I would be boarding in an hour for the return trip to Portland, cruising in to harbor.
15 mile ride, and a 3-mile
run at the lighthouse, to conclude the trip and get in Day 395 of my
PFC. TOTAL TRIP MILEAGE: ~870 miles
And a side-note as I write
this while sitting on the ferry: my body is sorer from 3 hours of
sitting than it ever was from 13 days of riding.
And so Jon has begun planning for next summer.... I like his idea of riding the entire St. Lawrence River from NY to Gaspe Peninsula! Start getting in shape everyone. It's an 800 mile ride and this time I want to do more than just 300 miles of the journey.
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